Dubai (UAE) 2021. Part 3

Part Three of My Dubai Travel Diary. Part 1 and Part 2 are here!

October 18, 2021 – Monday. EXPO and Artyom

Today I went to EXPO and wandered through several pavilions — what a flood of bright and fascinating impressions!
As I’ve mentioned before, the World Expo grounds are enormous — practically a whole city with its own squares and parks, and nearly 200 pavilions representing almost every country in the world. The largest ones, devoted to sustainable development, look straight out of a fairy tale.

The U.S. Pavilion felt grand and solemn, with a big, well-organized exhibition full of interesting things. Most of it was dedicated to space exploration: there was a replica of a Mars rover, an actual Martian meteorite discovered in Antarctica, and even a rock from the far side of the Moon — 3.8 billion years old — brought back to Earth by the Apollo 17 astronauts in 1972. In a separate hall stood a huge spherical screen playing videos about the country’s cosmic future.

Out on the plaza next to the pavilion, giant globes of Earth and Mars gleamed — each about five meters across. And a SpaceX rocket rose on the edge like a tower.
Emirates also had its own pavilion, which I managed to get into purely by luck — usually you have to book a time slot at least a day in advance. Inside was a parade of tech wonders: robotic arms you could control yourself, a VR hall showing the future of air travel, semi-transparent touch screens, and a massive futuristic engine model. There was even a whole shop of Emirates merchandise and model airplanes of every size — from tiny ones to huge, incredibly detailed (and pricey) collector pieces. Eye candy for any aviation geek!

I also dropped by the pavilions of Belarus, Norway, and Mauritius. After a whole day on my feet, they were absolutely killing me.
As closing time approached, the paths lit up with signs and glowing lines leading everyone back toward the central dome. You literally can’t get lost.

On the metro ride back from the EXPO terminal, I saw a funny scene — as soon as the train arrived, the entire crowd sprinted inside to grab the best seats. Clearly, they’d done this before Х)
During my stay in Dubai I even picked up a phrase in Arabic:
“El mahabbra hulakhila, velebre kupar — khila. El abuebre to glek.”
Which means: “Caution, the doors are closing. Next station…” XD

Back in the city I stocked up at Carrefour, located in one of the Bahar towers — a convenient supermarket chain with decent prices. I grabbed some guava and Alokozay tea (sadly, they didn’t have any fruit blends), plus water and a big beach towel.
In the evening I met up with my VK friend Artyom. We used to co-admin a Russian-language Mars One page, and after all these years we finally met in person! We cruised around nighttime Dubai in his two-seater — very James Bond — even drove out to the Palm Island. Later we stopped at a small café far from the tourist spots, a place for local workers. The prices and the menu were a pleasant surprise. I had fried shrimp for dinner — simple and perfect.

October 19, 2021 – Tuesday. Diving!

I hang my clothes out to dry on the balcony and leave them overnight, but with this humidity, it hardly helps. The ever-present heat makes my shoes turn yellowish — and frankly, they could qualify as weapons of mass destruction.
In the morning, I headed to the Palm Jumeirah Island on foot, passing the dizzyingly tall skyscrapers of Dubai Marina. At one point, I nearly got lost in a gigantic multi-level aboveground parking lot, but eventually I found my way onto the bridge connecting the mainland to the famous palm-shaped archipelago — the one I can see so clearly from my hostel window.
A red jogging path runs along the Palm’s “trunk.” It’s rubberized and springy underfoot. The pedestrian crossings are slightly raised like ramps — convenient, and it makes cars slow down automatically.

The Nemo Diving Club is located near Azure Residences (yes, the name brings to mind both azure and asari from ME), right at the base of the Palm. Behind its glass doors and floor-to-ceiling windows lies a well-equipped complex filled with all kinds of diving gear. This morning I happened to be the only customer, so I got a private instructor all to myself. His gaze struck me — calm, sun-tired, utterly at peace, as if all the time and all the sea belonged to him. The kind of person who could soothe even the most anxious beginner.
Coming out of the locker room, I promptly walked straight into a glass wall. Luckily, it was sturdy enough XD
The instructor explained the dive procedure and underwater hand signals, showed how to breathe through the mask, and went over ways to equalize pressure in the ears (only one method worked for me — swallowing).
And then we waded into the water, tanks on our backs — my first, thrilling dive experience!
We descended together, the instructor always nearby, checking on me every minute, asking with hand signs: “Everything okay?” — “Okay!” The water was murky, sand swirling up from the bottom. When you exhale and the bubbles rush past your face, it’s surprisingly loud! XD
We swam deeper and deeper until we reached eight meters. Saw various fish and sea urchins — black, spiky, and fascinating. An amazing, unforgettable experience!

The growing pressure in my ears was annoying — I had to keep equalizing it again and again. Not very effective, but it worked well enough.
The underwater adventure cost me $100 — pricey by any standard, but the impressions were worth it.
After diving, I strolled along West Beach, which offers a magnificent view of the majestic cluster of towers in Dubai Marina. Unfortunately, it’s a private beach, so no swimming there.

I went back by monorail — the trains glide above the road along the Palm’s “trunk.” Another mode of transport mastered! The carriages are bright and spacious.

In the evening I returned to the Dubai Mall, admired the giant aquarium where divers swam among the rays, and only late at night finally went for a swim myself. The sea’s voice had changed — earlier it purred like a kitten, and now it roared, almost growled; the waves had grown restless. The weather’s shifting. One wrong step, and a wave can easily knock you off your feet.

October 20, 2021 – Wednesday. Back to EXPO

Time flies like an arrow. How does one manage to see everything?)
I spent more than an hour getting to La Mer Beach. On the way, I watched the construction of a skyscraper — the crane was clinging to one corner, slim and impossibly tall, stretching dizzyingly into the sky. Working on that must be one extreme profession.

Here, closed and air-conditioned bus stops aren’t a luxury — they’re a necessity. You feel that immediately. On the way, I passed the world-famous seven-star Burj Al Arab hotel.
And those low-rise houses nearby — that’s probably where the local Emiratis live, the lucky holders of UAE passports.

La Mer itself is a small but cozy and well-equipped public beach with palm trees, a green zone, and a gorgeous view of the Burj Khalifa. You can float in the almost hot salty water and gaze at the spire of the tallest building in the world. I even saw a half-dead fish — likely the unfortunate survivor of a run-in with a predator. It was a big one, too.

Lunch didn’t go so well — at a fast-food place right on the beach, the fries were not only tasteless but also barely peeled. First time I’ve ever seen that!
After swimming, I headed back to EXPO again. So far I’ve only visited seven of the 200+ pavilions: China, Finland, Oman, Namibia, Kyrgyzstan, San Marino, the Marshall Islands, Chad, and Cameroon.

In the evening, a huge glowing animatronic ice lion appeared on the streets between the pavilions — there’s truly no end to the surprises here. Later, by complete accident, I stumbled upon a concert stage and ended up at a live rock show by Exposonix, blasting global hits under the dark dome of the Arabian sky. It was awesome!
The seating was genius — big beanbag chairs where you could sink in, stretch out your tired legs (mine were about to fall off from all the walking), and just enjoy great cover songs. You don’t usually get that level of comfort at an open-air concert. And the band? Fantastic energy!

October 21, 2021 – Thursday. Ain Dubai

Morning started with a speedboat tour — skimming over the waves like an arrow, bouncing so fast I could barely keep my balance! Somewhere along the way, I lost my Sevastopol cap — blown clean off my head by the wind into the Persian Gulf. Thankfully, nothing else followed it overboard XD
The ride circled around the Palm Jumeirah Island, with stops opposite landmarks like the Atlantis Hotel at the far end of the Palm and the iconic Burj Al Arab (where rooms cost anywhere from $2,000 to $25,000 per night!). We even sped right past the Carnival Splendor cruise liner before heading back to the Dubai Marina harbor. A breezy, thrilling ride!

Next up was another highlight — a ride on Ain Dubai, the largest observation wheel in the world. The scale is mind-blowing: an enormous structure lifting its sleek, spaceship-like cabins almost a quarter of a kilometer above the coastline! One full rotation takes about 40 minutes.
By the way, it was Ain Dubai’s opening day. Because of the rush of visitors, the booking system was a disaster — my payment went through twice, and they never refunded the duplicate charge. So instead of ~$36, I paid $72. Still, the experience was worth it. The attraction closed down again not long after, so I got lucky to catch it when I did.
The views from the top were absolutely breathtaking — the green shimmer of the sea streaked with boat wakes, the long fronds of the Palm fading into a golden haze, and the rooftops of skyscrapers far below my feet. Every single day here brings something incredible, and I just keep being amazed.

At the base of the wheel, on the way out, was a Bluewaters souvenir shop — surprisingly good quality stuff. I treated myself to a big metal Ain Dubai travel mug)
In the evening, I went back to Dubai Mall again to find that famous 30-meter diplodocus skeleton I mentioned in Part Two. Yes — inside a shopping mall. Wonders never cease.

That’s Dubai for you — like a modern Babylon, an astonishing mix of dazzling luxury and stark austerity (for the army of migrant workers from Pakistan, Bangladesh, and India). Everything here is grand, bold, larger than life.
I tried to see the full picture of life in this city and came to a conclusion: it’s a perfect place for an unforgettable vacation, but not the best place to work. Most of the workforce — the “locals” who actually make up around 90% of the population — live under constant pressure from their employers and have little time left to rest or enjoy the beautiful surroundings they help build.

October 22, 2021 – Friday. Two of Us at EXPO

On Friday, Pascaline and I headed to EXPO for the whole day — this time taking one of the special double-decker EXPO buses. They’re comfortable, painted in bright colors, run just for tourists, and best of all — completely free.
It’s funny sitting up front on the top deck — there’s no driver in sight; he’s downstairs somewhere.

At EXPO, we revisited the main pavilions: Sustainability, Opportunity, and Mobility — once again surrounded by digital marvels: motion-sensing displays, glowing light shows, and massive wax figures of Arab men who looked like they were deciding the fate of the world. Spherical projection screens, national treasures, mechanical installations — everything was stunning and theatrical.
We wanted to see the Russian pavilion too — the one shaped like a neon tangle of cables — but the endless crowds and queues made that impossible.
At the local McDonald’s, you can refill your drinks as much as you want. We went all in — pouring soda straight into our bottles, bold as brass XD

In the evening we had dinner at a shopping mall. It took us ages to find a free table — the place was packed. After a whole day of talking in English, I was honestly sick of that practice.
Later, we searched for a travel bag for me at the round, elegant Dubai Marina Mall — something roomy but not too pricey. My luggage was already bursting, and I had nowhere to fit my warm clothes.
And right there, I witnessed what could generously be called a “street fight.” Considering how strict the UAE laws are, it looked hilarious — more like a contactless battle between two angry hamsters separated by invisible glass XD

October 23, 2021 – Saturday. The Airbus A380!

Early in the morning, I took a taxi to the airport — 120 dirhams. I was about to fly on the largest passenger plane in the world, the Airbus A380! So exciting!
I’d splurged on a pricey Emirates ticket for the Dubai–Moscow flight (I’d decided to return via Russia). Before the pandemic, the ticket cost around 1,700 dirhams, but when everything got shut down, I received only a voucher in return. By the time I booked again, the price had gracefully climbed to about 2,000 dirhams — another $100 on top. In total, I paid over 220,000 tenge. Ouch.

The double-deck A380 is like a spaceship. These enormous, majestic “barrels” stand at the gates with tails rising as high as a seven-floor building, proudly carrying the UAE flag. Boarding happens on both levels — that’s how many passengers this air giant can hold.
My seat was 53K, right by the wing — which already says a lot about the plane’s size. The seats are wide, the windows huge, the cabin spacious and airy.
We climbed to 13 kilometers — maybe even higher — under the darkening cosmic dome of the sky. More than 500 passengers, 25 flight attendants, yet the aircraft seemed to live its own life; there was no way to keep track of everyone. Checks were done quickly, almost casually.

I just relaxed — sipping mango juice, listening to Mylène Farmer, and exploring Emirates’ rich ICE entertainment system full of music and movies. The flight was so smooth it didn’t even feel like we were speeding along at nearly 900 km/h.
From the window, Mount Damavand, Iran’s tallest peak (5,609 m), looked absolutely magnificent. Most of the way we flew under clear skies, then north of the Caspian Sea the clouds began to thicken. We started descending already over Voronezh — about 300 km before Moscow.

Four and a half hours and 3,600 kilometers flew by in no time.
But at Domodedovo Airport, I was met with the most hostile welcome of any border I’ve crossed (and likely ever will). They simply didn’t want to let people in. The officers in the booths barked at foreigners in Russian, and the poor travelers, not understanding a word, froze in confusion.
I spent almost two hours stuck at passport control. All the foreigners were herded into one hall and told to sit still — everyone tense, not knowing what would happen next. No one could get online — without a local SIM card, Wi-Fi was inaccessible. My cousin was probably losing his mind waiting for me at the exit.
The airport staff looked exhausted and irritable. The whole atmosphere was oppressive — I couldn’t help thinking, what kind of place have I landed in?
I started asking random people for help, looking for anyone with a phone that had Cyrillic letters. I talked to a British guy — a fellow prisoner of the situation — and finally found an Uzbek who shared his mobile hotspot. I managed to call my cousin via WhatsApp, and she contacted her brother to let him know where I am.
Apparently, the border guards were just having a particularly bad day.
Eventually, they did let us in — hallelujah! I wouldn’t have thought much of it otherwise, but that experience really left a mark.
Time was short, so instead of a proper walk around Moscow, we made a quick dash to the Museum of Cosmonautics. I barely saw the metro — just rushed through escalators and trains at full speed — but the museum itself was great, full of fascinating exhibits.



Later, we took a bus to Pushchino, a small town surrounded by forest parks — peaceful and autumnal. Everyone kept saying how incredibly tanned I looked after these few days in Dubai)

October 24, 2021 – Sunday. On “Pobeda” to Novosibirsk

That evening, I headed back to the airport again. This time I was flying with Pobeda, a Russian low-cost airline, from Vnukovo. Brand-new planes, neat uniforms — and a cheeky, playful attitude. The crew announced everything with a good sense of humor. Everything onboard was minimalist, even the safety instructions were printed right on the seat backs.
I was hauling a massive, oversized suitcase from my relatives — practically a portable black hole.

The trip back from Novosibirsk was by minibus, with a transfer at the border — the only option available. At that time, due to the pandemic, flights from Moscow to Kazakhstan cost more than Moscow–Singapore. Total nonsense.
All in all, my trip to Dubai and Russia cost me almost $2,000 — about half my annual salary. Pretty steep by our standards.
But still, it was a wonderful journey, full of incredible memories that stayed with me for months — even years — afterwards.